Ao tu than – Symbol of ancient Kinh Bac women

“Ao tu than“, or “four-piece dress,” is a traditional costume that has been associated with the women of the ancient Kinh Bac region in Vietnam. This unique outfit, typically worn by married women, consists of four separate pieces of clothing that are intricately layered on top of one another. Each piece is designed with a specific purpose, and together they form a symbol of the cultural identity and heritage of Kinh Bac women. Throughout history, the “ao tu than” has been a source of pride and reverence for Vietnamese women, and it continues to hold a special place in the hearts of many today. In this article, we will explore the history and significance of the “ao tu than” in the context of ancient Kinh Bac culture.

What’s “Ao tu than”?

The “ao tu than” is a type of everyday clothing worn by women in ancient Northern Vietnam. The design of the dress is very feminine, imbued with a rustic charm, and steeped in the ups and downs of history. While the mention of Hue brings to mind the elegant and majestic five-panel ao dai, and the Southern region with the familiar and down-to-earth “ao ba ba”, the “ao tu than” embodies the culture of the Northern part of the country, especially the image of the countryside. This outfit was widely used until the beginning of the 20th century.

The ao tu than consists of four pieces of clothing, two front flaps, and two back flaps. The front flap is tailored separately, and the back flap is sewn together, also known as the “Song ao” (“sống áo”). The length of the dress falls just above the knee, approximately 20 cm. There are no buttons on the dress, instead, it is secured with a wrap at the front or a separate tie. The sleeves are designed to be long and tight, with the length of the dress usually touching the heels, and typically worn with a black skirt.

The Ao tu than is often paired with an ao yem underneath. There are also regulations on the colors of the ao yem. Young girls usually wear a bright red ao yem, while older women wear brown or dark-colored ao yem. Over the ao yem is a thin white outer blouse, and the waistband is usually blue. The overall outfit is both charming and neat.

The history of the development of the traditional Vietnamese garment

No one knows exactly when the “ao tu than” was first created, but it appeared in bronze drum patterns thousands of years ago. The name comes from the narrow fabric piece, with two pieces hanging at the back and two pieces in front. In the 17th century, the dress was tied up at the front flaps to make it more practical for women to work.

The “áo tứ thân” is a traditional Vietnamese garment that contributes to the diversity of the culture. Throughout history, there have been many improvements, but the dress retains the beauty of Northern Vietnamese women. Wearing the dress showcases the freedom and charm of modern women. The dress carries significant meaning in honoring the beauty of hardworking and attractive ancient women. They were simple but captivating individuals who worked diligently.

The Ao Tu Than is not only meaningful to women but also has a special significance in its design. The two flaps in the front and back represent the four maternal elements, while the collar symbolizes parents embracing their children.

Today, the Ao Tu Than is widely used in performances and festivals to honor and promote the traditional image of Vietnamese women. Whether in the present or future, the Ao Tu Than remains one of the products that accompany the life of the Vietnamese people. It serves as a connection to their cultural roots and a symbol of their identity.

>> Ao Ba Ba Vietnam – Traditional Costume of Southern Vietnamese People

Types of Ao Tu Than

Ao Tu Than is a traditional four-panel dress that has been worn by Vietnamese women for centuries. Over time, various styles and designs of Ao Tu Than have emerged, each with its own unique characteristics. Here are some of the most popular types:

Ao tu than of The traditional

The traditional ao dai tu than is essentially a long shirt dress with a wide, flowing skirt and loose pants to wear underneath. It helps to cover some imperfections and flatter the wearer’s figure.

These traditional styles are often made from soft, comfortable fabrics and feature muted colors such as brown, purple, and black. The outer coat usually has more vibrant colors to make it stand out. The long pants are made of black silk with a bright yellow belt to create a simple yet elegant outfit. Depending on the age of the wearer, different colored yem shirts are selected, ranging from bold to warm tones.

Modernized version

The modernized version of ao tu than is also popular nowadays. It combines traditional and modern beauty to create a standout outfit. This type of áo dài tứ thân has a higher collar and a narrower inner pant to avoid being entangled. In addition, it is designed with eye-catching patterns for added decoration.

Ao tu than of Northern

Ao thu than of the Northern often carries an incredibly charming and sophisticated beauty. The back of the tunic is designed from two pieces of fabric of the same color, sewn together. The front two flaps are separated and can be tied together in front of the stomach. Combined with wide-legged black pants, it creates a complete outfit. When wearing ao tu than, a wide-brimmed conical hat cannot be added. However, nowadays the hat is only used for very special occasions. A headscarf covering the forehead is more commonly used.

Ao tu than of Southern

The design of the ao tu than Southern is very different from that Ao thu than of the Northern. Typically, the tunic consists of three separate parts: an outer coat, an overlapping skirt, and a yếm worn underneath. The Yem part of the Southern is usually designed to be very conservative. It has discreet decorative patterns on the front. Unlike Ao thu than of the Northern, the Southern usually does not have buttons sewn on the front flaps. It is designed to be tied together in front.

As for the overlapping skirt, it is usually quite long but does not touch the heels. It is often made of thicker fabrics than the wide-legged black pants and does not flare out too wide.

Throughout generations, Ao Tu Than has remained a symbol of the strong and resilient women of ancient Kinh Bac. This landmark continues to hold great significance, serving as a nostalgic reminder of the enduring love and connection between the people and their homeland. Even after centuries, the legacy of the women who held this land dear lives on.